eufflcient for the day is the Baedeker
thereof. Open that invalnable volume
penned by a man and brother, and
you will find sound advice as to see¬
ing Vienna and its environs in three
days, more or less. Now I suhmit
that is not the wayto doit: ten ybars
in the Austrian capital wouldn't lex¬
haust its charms. get as most travel¬
ers allow themselves abont à weck or
ten days, it is best to follow thelad¬
vice of good old Br’er Baedeker. And
here I leave him, for I am essentially
a rambler, a prowler, lazy, leisurely
curious, and seldom sorry when
it’s dinner time. (Mrs. Ralph Waldo
Emerson once quietly remarked that
Thoreau never went beyond the sound
of the dinner horn, and who am I to
be ashamed of a similar weakness?)
Of course, the proper manner of
writing on such a resounding theme
as Vienna would be to begin, as do
all the guides and guide books, with
St. Stephen’s Cathedral (old“ Stef¬
fel,“ as it is called by the natives)
for the central point of departure,
trailing around the churches, traips¬
ing through the art galleries and
finally going to the Prater.
Tou recall the popular lecturer, the
spotlight, the“ ladies and gentlemen,
this evening we propose to visit the
city on the blue Danube. Tothe right
you may notice the spire of the
wondrously beautiful cathedral crect¬
ed in the year'’—click, and the sereen
shows you the church! The stomach
of Vienna first interested me, not its
soul, and after a ride around the city
in the“ saloon carrlage“ of the Mu¬
niclpal Street Railway line I started
out to investigate the places wherein
Vienna eats and drinks. Please par¬
don this unconventional method.
Doesn“t a traveler when arrlving in a
city eat and drink before he goes
sightseeing?
Let me hasten to tell you that I
have been in Vienna both Winter and
Summer. The latter season is in¬
comparably the better time to enjoy
Sthe town, but if you haven't been
there in Winter you only know Vi¬
enna one-half.
Austrian Cooking.
June is lovely, December more
brilliant, more stimulating, I con¬
fess at the outset I like the Austrian
kitchen better than the German.
Hungary lends her paprika, der pa¬
prika chicken, her gulyas, her Ester¬
hazy roast, and Vienna has her
bread, her raal schnitzel, various
stews, risi-bisi (rice and peas:, suck¬
ling pig, splendid fish, sausages, rich
soups—minsstra, an Italian variety—
and dumplings in a dozen shapes.
Andapfelstrudel! And Kaiserschmarn!
A half hundred deliclous desserts, with
the aroma of coffee as an aurcole at
the close of the meal, (or at 5 in the
afternoon.) Nevertheless, there is
seldom repletion; you are satisfied
with the flavoring and do not, as in
Germany, eat, eat, eat, as if in search
of something von seldom find.
If I whispered that the difference:
between German and Austrian cook¬
ery depended upon butter and the
Judicious use of the humble onion
you would, perhaps, smile. Yet is it
80. The onion and its more athletle
relative, garlic, is the foundational
base of not only Austrian, bit# the
best cuisines in the world, I see you
hold up hands of horror, nevertheless
anuand of garlie lends mang a meal
its flavor. (I snid a nuance!) 11 is
the obromatie scale in the harmonies
of taste. Viennese cooks know this,
and without your leave employ that
w-called offensive vegetable, the
1
mien
74
ETRRA





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Mnaan.
65
The Church of St. Stephen.
tility of American life, its hurry,
allude to the numerous beer restaur¬
onion, so skillfully that you ent and
bustle, money-making. In six months
ants, where all the world, his wife,
admire.
1 told myself I weuld be transformed
mother-in-law, and the children, eat
Naturally no one will admit this,
into a Joyous looker-on in Vienna,
daily and sip the almost non-alcohollo
4
tourists are so scared of the health¬
qulte oblivioussto the ambitions of the
dark and light brews. I speak of cer¬
1
4
giving product. But my mouth still
Western world.
tain semi-sacred houses where tho
b
waters over my memorles. The noble
Oh, how mistaken I was! No one
ritual of beer drinking is observed,
y ne
art of glutting is cultivated in all
works harder than the Vienna busi¬
where at preseribed hours fanaties
the comp
Austria.
ness man and woman; their hours
meet and solemnly absorb the amber
are intere
Some Fine Restaurants.
are at least a third longer than the#
brew. Woe to the waiter if the foam
a gallery
hours of an American, yet they con¬
is not of the crehmiest! Woe to the
derivative
I strolled from Sacher’s on the Au¬
trive to so space them that they ap¬
host if any marked varlation of tem¬
Arthur S
gustinerstrasse, where the menu is
pear to have limitless leisure. How
thus fär
perature is felt!
first class, high in price, the wines
do they do it? The climate is soft,
In a little old house, which might
preted in
impeccable, over to Hartmann's on
which allows of open-air life; the wo¬
be called“ quaint,“ on a little street
Richard
the Ring. It is across the street from
inen work more than the men; the
near a Greek church, is the“ Reichen¬
the drama
the Grand Hotel, and I’lI wager there
piety of the people at large is pro¬
berger“ or “ Grieschenbeisl.“ There
the ciever
is no restaurant in Vienna where one
nounced—the churches Sunday märn¬
the best kept Pilsner in Vienna may
von Hof
hears so much English (usually Amer¬
ing are as crowded as are the cafés
be found. There also many artists,
post and
ican-English) as in this comfortable,
Sunday afternoon¬there is unmistak¬
actors, musicians assemble of nights,
Strauss o
comparatively cheap establishment.
able poverty, nevertheless the mer¬
anda merry company it is. However,
are a te
Its cuisine is Austrian mixed with
curial spirit prevails everywhere.
Vienna is not a“late“ city, as 18,
there ars
French. The cooking is excel¬
A Paradise for Musicians.
poet and
for example, Berlin. At midnight the
a pace. Meissl
lent and sets
ot the ##
streets are deserted except at Car¬
It gives Vienna its primal charm, it
and Schadn’s on the Kärthner¬
nival time or New Year’s Eve—last
a
hums in the alr. Nowonder Johann
strasse is typical Viennese, with its
New Tear’s Eve the crush was as bad
4
Strauss composedihis music; no won¬
euckling pig, risi-bist, pickled veal,
as on Broadway.
der the otherwise ponderous Johannes
and sauerkraut, (such sublimated
In Berlin I have deen intoxicated
□ 0
Brahms preferred##h# spot 1o his
sauerkraut,) to be had at far from
persons, seldom In Vienna have 1
birthplace, Hamturs;no wonder #
high prices. The Stephankeller (Café
encountered one. The point is sig¬
Becthoven wrote####cherz ef
de I’Europe) is another mecting
nificant, as is the agreeable cocking
symphonies. Vierna inspired
ground for good livers. At Gause’s,
of the dity. Food plays a greater
composers, as it läspired Moze
the Rother Igel, the Rathauskeller,
röle in dur psychology than our
Schubert. Some #### these
you may taste the wines of the coun¬
thin-skinned idealists will admit.
cursed the frivolitgof che Sapital
try, rather too thin and shrewd for
Possibly our National cooking may be
her deen, ablding urmeheld them
my palate: Vöslaü, Gumpoldskirchen,
the bar sinister in our artistic pro¬
on
cle#e to her.
Nussberg, Klosterneuberg, Retz,
Sa
ductivity, for a country which is
edal 18 this
The obverse or
Pfaffstadt, Mailberg, and the heavier
#
given over to fanatics and prudes—in
same frivolltv. ##ere is also an
Dalmatian vintages As I stuck to
#
the domain of eating and drinking-
earnest intellectugl and artistic fife.
my favorite beverage, Pilsner, I can
ho
#ill never’give birth to individual art.
In one week last Winter I attended
lay no claim to being an expert on
804
conferences by Gerhart Hauptmann,
II.
the subject öf the wines; furthermore,
im
Georg Brandes-tlie latter dealt with
The gayest elty I have ever lived in
my pronounced taste for peppery,
Goethe and Strindberg—and I heard
is Vienna. Paris is feverish. Parls
highly flavored food is hardly a
Mortz Rosenthaf, Eugen d’Albert,
takes its pleasures very much as dees
criterion for the milder palates of
ness
Godowsky, and tbe Rose quartet, and
New York, in a hurry, as if to snatch
visltors from abroad. The big hotels
particulaf
attended à performance by the great¬
at the fugitive moment and like
know this, and there you get the.
of the rei
est of orchestras, the Vienna Phil¬
Faust cry.“ Stay! thou art so falr.“
“international cooking, which pre¬
that best
harmonie, under the leadership of
Berlin, I found, was too self-con¬
vails over all Europe, even in the
always c
Felix Weingärtner, who gave a read¬
sclous, too cultured to relax, while
dining cars, a something that belongs
are 200
ing of the Brahms fourth symphony
Munich is a trifle Stoo soggy, too
to no nation, neither French, Ger¬
beats all
(in E minor) which, according to the
“wet.“ Vienna, for me, hits the
man, nor English, cosmopolitan, in a
and Vien
Interpretations of most conductors, is
medium of gayety without hectie
word. There are exceptions in Vien¬
matter of
a gray-in-gray crabbed pattern, in¬
symptoms and leisure without Prus¬
na, for example at the Bristol, with
they are
stead cf the glowing, luminous and
sian stiffness. The elements of tho
its French chef, you fancy yourself
They are
eloquently expressive masterplece it
Austrian race are heterogeneous;
in Paris at Paillard’s—that is to say,
modious,
became under the hands of Wein¬
the Slavic counts, and counts the
if you order a special dinner. Other¬
In one I
gärtner. Not a bad record, is it, for
Magyar. The beer is Germanle, the
wise one hotel table d’hôte is like
never sen
the city on the brown and turbld
culture is, minus a heavy Teutonie
another, neither fish nor flesh, nor
degrees
Danube?
quallty, also Germanic; there Is a
good, red herring.
remonstr#
Then there is thie opera, there are
lightness in the moral atmosphere
But the Pilsner in Vienna! That
(lord was
the theatres, and, to Jump to therother
that might be called Gallle.
would need a complete chapter. Whlle
more st
side of the scale, there are the med¬
it is not so superlatively fine as at
rooms, 1
ical schools, and surgeons and physi¬
Optimistic Vienna.
Prague, with that supernal touch
to Viennd
clans who have not their equal any¬
The Viennese man is an optimist.
which never can be elsewhere dupli¬
and agal
where. And the university life.
He regards life not so steadily, or as
cated, it is wonderful enough, though
able in t
I only know Vienna guperficially,
a whole, but as as a gay fragment.
I noted with dismay, as I noted in
will mare
the inner social life not at all, but to
Cleuds gather, the storm breaks,
Stuttgart, Munich, Dresden, and Ber¬
In the
my inexperienced masculine eyes the
then the raln stons and the sun floats
lin. that the Invasion of the Amerlcan
you see 5
Vienna woman is the best dressed in
once more in the blue. Let to-mor¬
had been fatal in the matter of tem¬
„ory of ce
the world after tho American. (Paris
row take care of itself, to-day we go
peratures. The European now drinks
Brahms,
is, of course, hors concours.) There,
tothe Prater and watch the wheels
his beer cold, even lcy. In few
gruber,
again, the touch is Gallic. The beauty
go round. This irresponsibility is con¬
spots couid Ffind the precise degree
berg, in
of the Viennese women is proverbial.
fined to no class. Whether all the
of temperature at which Pilsner is its
Hamerii
That gypsy-like çoloring, hair and
folk you see in the restaurants, cafés,
bloomiest.
Theodore
1 do not think it necessary here to and gardens can afford to spend eyes, the fresh complexions, the gen¬