Faksimile

Text

box 41/5
1. Miscellaneons
TAMES, SUNDAT, APRIL 13, 1913.

VIENNA
—NOT PARIS, BUT
EUROPE
SE
e ee uuraie Ses u
time the Vienna forest (Wiener Wald)
kard, Schiller, Mozart, Strauss, and
eral style—best deserlbed as“ fesch“
money as they indubitably do, I can¬
extended; it is inclosed in a niche to
Lanner are represented, and with
—is to be found no place hut Vienna.
not pretendsto know. They cat and
which, so legend hath it, all Journey¬
them an army of royal mediocrities
The inen dress like Londoners, are
drink the best, and as a native said
inen locksmiths paid a visit before
and municial celebrities. Think of
more particular than the Germans In
to me, if they were without a roof
their Wanderjahre and drove a nall
the Central Cemetery, where is the
the cut of their clothes, the color of
they would still go to the restaurants.
into the tree to spite the devil.
empty grave of Mozart; where are
their ties, the set of their silk hats.
Well fed, with good, flavored food,
On our way we pass the Mozarthof,
the remains of Beethoven, Gluck,
A prosperous, prodigal, vivacious
therefore eupeptie, not dyspeptic, the
a building erected in 1848 on the site
Franz Schubert, Johann Straurs, near
population, hard as nalls if driving a
Viennese are seemingly contented;
of the house where Mozart died. The
his friend Brahms, and where lie such
bargain, as hospitable as can be when
so, and they are always
they Joel:
glorious cathedral, celebrated in piet¬
men as Von Suppé, Milloecker, Bruck¬
business Is over, and the hour of
cheerful.
ure and prose, need not be here de¬
ner, Herbeck, Hugo Wolf, Makard.
recreation is at hand: “ Theurs ex¬
Their tobacco is better than the
seribed. Nor the' Graben. In the
Clement, and the pedagogue Czerny!
quise,“ not of absinthe, but of coffee.
tobacco of France or Germany—it is
Hof are the War Office, the Credit
Vienna honors her illustrious dend in
And then there is Vienna, the mag¬
both oddrous and cheap. Coffee is
Institute for Trade and Commerce,
anappropriate manner. There is a
nificent.
the magnet late in the afternoon, and
the Radetzky monument—do you re¬
Lisztgasse, named after the Hun¬
III.
it is difficult to get a seat after 5
member in your childish years the
garian composer, and it may be re¬
Vienna the Magnificent! I fear
o’clock in any ofthe numerous places.
stirring little Radetzsky march, by
membered that it was in Vienna that
the approach of the dithyramble.
Tremember one café, on the Kährtner¬
the elder Strauss? It still tinkles in
the youthful Chopin won his first
Vienna is truly the city of magnif¬
strasse, which is appropriately called
my ears to the tonality of D major.
triumphs outside of provincial War¬
icent distances; not even Washington
the" Guckfenster,“ from the win¬
We see the palace of Count Har¬
saw. There is a Beethovengang un
deserves the title as much. Every
dows of which you mag stare at the
rach, the Scots Church, the fountain:
on the Kahlenberg, outside of the
vista has its pieture, either a church,
passing show. Every afternoon I
then, through the Herrengasse, with####
city, a shady walk as you ascend by
a monument, a palace, or a park. Von
went there early so as to secure my
its many public bulldings, we achieve
the Schreiberbach, in which Bee¬
range and range and seemingly never
favorite seat, and there I sipped and
the imperial palace, the Hofburg—
thoven often strolled, hatless, singing
exhaust the possibillties of the city.
stared and stared and sipped, and in
two monumental fountains, past the#
If von pick out the green shade of to himself the motives he was weav¬
the delce far hinte Iarveled over
the futility of life, especially the fu- the Prater on a sunny day you pres- ing in his skull. The Viennese of his gateway to the Franzensplatz.
225
Anrenenereren ehen
S
62
The Quarter of the Town HIali. 4
Another big monument. A milltary
ently find yourself in the thick of life days pronounced him half mad. Per¬
band is playing. A fine rain is fall¬
haps he was, but he was also Bee¬
atthe Würst! Prater, or Venedig in
Ing, hut the place is black with peo¬
thoven. From the famons Karl Gold¬
Wien, a glorified Coney Island, At¬
ple. We sce the Rathhaus, the mu¬
mark, the most venerable of Austrian
lantie City, Crystal Palace, and Vin¬
scums, the House of Parliament; we
composers, to the precocious com¬
cennes gingerbread fair, without
go to the Maximilianplatz and ad¬
poser, Erich Korngold, the chain of
either ocean or boardwalk. But gay¬
mire the Votive Church; look at the
active musical effort is unbroken.
monument and the Stock Exchange
ety prevails, If you are in the mood
and the universitg; then we stand
Vienna is very musical, although I
historical you have a field to work
amazed before the majestie propor¬
cure less for its opera house than I did
that is practically inexhaustible.
tions of the Hofburg Theater, whose
in the days when Mahler and Wein¬
entrance and stairwag are the finest
Aesthetie cravings are satisfied by
in Europe; admire the spacious
200
gärtner reigned.
the superb architecture, the ceaseless
Volksgarten, note the monument to
Instee of beginning a chant royal
musie-ma#g, the round of theatri¬
the Empress Elizabeth, past the
of admiration for the Cathedral,
8118
cal novelties—not to mention the
Volkstheater to the Burgring, With
which Is the“ star“ of the sacerdotal
the pair of Imperial museums. the.
#artistie acting-and the rogal mu¬
W
W
Maria Theresa memorial, as far as
Fienna, 1 prefer 1o
architectung in
goum, which houses so mang 61a
3533
the Opernring, on the right the
Gen S
speak of the Karlskirche on the
masters.
Schillerplatz, (Academy or Fine Arts,
S
Karlsplatz, possibiy because its pom¬
full of canvases;) opposite the Goethe
5
Viennese Art and Literature.
statue, a stout, matüre gentleman in
pous splendor and commanding posi¬
1
4
WRR
a badly fitting frock coat, and the
*
tion impresses one more than the Ca¬
Of modern Viengese painting lcan't
e
Aaren. Knen u. verv irar-ire Sstruct¬
d bv aur-
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he
uch:
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