13. Miscellaneous
box 447
vom
The
17
UNPOLITICAL
AN
JOURNEY
II. VIENNA AND
SALZBURG
RETREATS FROM STRIFE
From Our Dramatic Critic
VIENNA
Whatever their political anxieties, Austrians
are extremely willing to talk freely of art. To
them a great dramatist remains a great dramatist
in spite of the racial disabilities of his grand¬
mother, and they bring to the consideration of
all things a charming, affable lassitude, touched
with a little cynicism, which, in this world of
strident faiths, is comforting to Englishmen.
The policy of the Government is not to use
the theatre as a Party instrument, but to keep
it clear of politics. That this is not easy a visit
to Salzburg proves. The city has a beauty and
tranquillity which should make its Festival,
during the month of August, a retreat from the
troubles of the world. To a series of operas
and concerts unrivalled in Europe are added
Reinhardt's production of Everyman and Faust.
Given fine weather, the production of Faust
should be enchanting. In former days, spec¬
tators in the open-air riding school watched,
from galleries carved in the rock of the Mönchs¬
berg, tournaments and exercises held in the
arena below. Now the arena seats the audience
and the rock-face with its galleries is used as
the setting for Faust, little houses having been
built there, a garden made, and a tree success¬
fully transplanted. It is not hard to imagine
the windows illuminated, the voice of Mephisto¬
pheles speaking suddenly from the darkness of
the higher galleries, the night-sky shining above
the rest of the rock. It is true that there have
been explosions in Salzburg, designed by political
enemies to frighten the timid; and one at least
a
the bonne
the vestibule
roque all-fontan¬
of the Festival Theatre, it destroyed the fountain
itself and did serious damage to the entrance
gates and to Kolig's mosaic. But unless this
malicious propaganda against Austria is intensi¬
fied, it may be regarded as no more than an
attempt to impress those willing to be impressed
by the follies of barbarism.
REMEMBERED GREATRESS
Vienna, though not gay" as those who think
of it in terms of musical comedy imagine it to
be, has a special grace and charm. A certain
melancholy broods over it, the melancholy of
greatness remembered. The streets, uncrowded
by day, are almost empty at night. Plays begin
at such an hour that an unaccustomed English¬
man, having failed to take his food with him
in a paper bag. finds himself, soon after 10
o'clock, looking eagerly for supper. This is in
itself an instructive adventure. You wander into
a restaurant to discover a little orchestra playing
to perhaps two couples among an archipelago of
empty tables. Discouraged, you turn again
towards the door, expecting to be frowned upon
box 447
vom
The
17
UNPOLITICAL
AN
JOURNEY
II. VIENNA AND
SALZBURG
RETREATS FROM STRIFE
From Our Dramatic Critic
VIENNA
Whatever their political anxieties, Austrians
are extremely willing to talk freely of art. To
them a great dramatist remains a great dramatist
in spite of the racial disabilities of his grand¬
mother, and they bring to the consideration of
all things a charming, affable lassitude, touched
with a little cynicism, which, in this world of
strident faiths, is comforting to Englishmen.
The policy of the Government is not to use
the theatre as a Party instrument, but to keep
it clear of politics. That this is not easy a visit
to Salzburg proves. The city has a beauty and
tranquillity which should make its Festival,
during the month of August, a retreat from the
troubles of the world. To a series of operas
and concerts unrivalled in Europe are added
Reinhardt's production of Everyman and Faust.
Given fine weather, the production of Faust
should be enchanting. In former days, spec¬
tators in the open-air riding school watched,
from galleries carved in the rock of the Mönchs¬
berg, tournaments and exercises held in the
arena below. Now the arena seats the audience
and the rock-face with its galleries is used as
the setting for Faust, little houses having been
built there, a garden made, and a tree success¬
fully transplanted. It is not hard to imagine
the windows illuminated, the voice of Mephisto¬
pheles speaking suddenly from the darkness of
the higher galleries, the night-sky shining above
the rest of the rock. It is true that there have
been explosions in Salzburg, designed by political
enemies to frighten the timid; and one at least
a
the bonne
the vestibule
roque all-fontan¬
of the Festival Theatre, it destroyed the fountain
itself and did serious damage to the entrance
gates and to Kolig's mosaic. But unless this
malicious propaganda against Austria is intensi¬
fied, it may be regarded as no more than an
attempt to impress those willing to be impressed
by the follies of barbarism.
REMEMBERED GREATRESS
Vienna, though not gay" as those who think
of it in terms of musical comedy imagine it to
be, has a special grace and charm. A certain
melancholy broods over it, the melancholy of
greatness remembered. The streets, uncrowded
by day, are almost empty at night. Plays begin
at such an hour that an unaccustomed English¬
man, having failed to take his food with him
in a paper bag. finds himself, soon after 10
o'clock, looking eagerly for supper. This is in
itself an instructive adventure. You wander into
a restaurant to discover a little orchestra playing
to perhaps two couples among an archipelago of
empty tables. Discouraged, you turn again
towards the door, expecting to be frowned upon